Yellow Nutsedge identification in Kansas City, St. Louis and Omaha, Nebraska
|Synonyms||chufa sedge, nut grass, yellow nutsedge, tiger nut sedge, or earth almond|
|Life cycle: Perennial
Growth Habit: Basal rosette, end of May
Propagation: Seed and generation from taproot segments
Root Type: Thick and long taproot, sometimes branched
Flower Color: Yellow
Yellow Nutsedge Identification can be confusing. Sometimes it’s called nutgrass even though it’s not technically a grass. It’s a sedge. Its leaves are grasslike and yellow-green, and the spiky flower or seed head is yellow. Yellow nutsedge can be distinguished from good grasses by its V-shaped stem. The best way to identify it? If you’ve mowed and a day or two later you see yellowy grass growing higher than your lawn… yellow nutsedge is the culprit. It’s a tough weed to control because its tubers can grow 8-14 inches deep in the soil. It can be very expensive for the average person to get rid of and control, however, Pro Turf Lawn Services addresses the problem at a fraction of the cost because we purchase the product in bulk and pass the savings on to our customers. We use the #1 product on the market for the control of Nutsedge, SedgeHammer.
Nutsedge, also commonly referred to as nutgrass, is a grassy weed that begins affecting Mid-West lawns around mid to late June. It’s scientific name is Cyperus esculentus. Nutsedge is extremely invasive and is considered one of the toughest weeds to control by lawn companies and golf course professionals around the world.
Nutsedge has a peculiar shape that makes it somewhat easy to identify. It has a triangular stem made up of 3 leaves, is light green in color and has a glossy sheen. It also has the ability to outgrow regular turf grasses in terms of height, causing lawn care customers to have to mow more often to reduce the visual affect.
How to Kill Nutsedge
There is no great organic control for killing nutsedge in your lawn – other than pulling them very carefully when they’re just starting to sprout in the spring. Do this when the soil is moist and you can work to get the entire root including the little nutlet – you’ll know it when you see it. If you don’t get the entire root parts, the nutsedge will continue to return. But, if you can pull a majority of it effectively, and have healthy strong competitive grasses that you mow nice and high, pulling is one place to start.
Just like the dandelion, we strongly urge customers to not pull this weed! Because Nutsedge has a very delicate root structure that can break at the slightest pull the root structures are left in the soil and will regenerate a new plant very quickly, making the problem get worse. In fact, we recommend that customers leave the plant and let it get tall enough to be sprayed with an herbicide, the more leaf material the technician can spray, means that much more of the herbicide will be taken in by the Nutsedge plant.
Using Vinegar on Nut Grass
Use a vinegar that is a 10, 15 or 20% acetic acid concentration. Pour the vinegar into an empty spray bottle, and spray directly on to the nut grass. Do not spray the vinegar on any surrounding plants or grass that you do not want to kill, as the spray could be harmful to them. Reapply as necessary or when you notice the nut grass re-emerging.
Pro Turf Lawn Services uses SedgeHammer herbicide to kill nutsedge without injury to turfgrass, established ornamentals, shrubs, and/or trees. SedgeHammer provides post-emergence control of both purple nutsedge and yellow nutsedge.